🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.